“When the missionaries came to Africa , they had the Bible and we had the land.
They said "Let us pray." We closed our eyes. When we opened them,
we had the Bible and they had the land."
- Desmond Tutu
The religious people of Togo are 29% Christian, 20% Muslim, and 51% indigenous beliefs. This was back-to-church Sunday for me. I decided to attend mass for the first time here in Togo. Cathedrale Saint-Esprit is a large Roman Catholic church in Kpalime that I always see when I’m biking into town. It was built in 1913, when ‘Togoland’ was under German rule. With its traditional, tall steeple, you can easily see it from a distance.
Like everything else in Togo, I had no idea what to expect from Sunday Mass. When I studied abroad in Paris, I went to St. Sulpice to check out the service and hear the incredible organ playing. The mass was basically the same as any other I had attended. This time it was different….much more traditional. The service lasted two hours, with the first 30 minutes standing, complete with holy water showers and incense.
Apart from the incredible length of the service, I did enjoy it. Arriving a little early, we secured seats in one of the last pews, which created a perfect view of everything going on. I absolutely LOVED the singing. It was not like a gospel choir; they sang traditional Catholic hymns, but they were WONDERFUL. The church's interior style and decoration was beautiful. The first thing I noticed while walking in was that there was no typical Jesus nailed to the cross behind the altar, but instead, a happy-looking Jesus with his arms out, as if he was saying “Welcome, sit down, relax,” like a gracious host.
Sunday mornings are definitely a time for people-watching in Kpalime. People entering the church were all wearing their ‘Sunday best.’ Everyone decked out in their finest, sitting inside a beautiful church was a pretty stunning sight. I definitely stuck out like a sore thumb…..not just because I was the only white person, duh, but because I was wearing pants. Epic fail. I wasn’t trying to make a fashion statement, it’s just that I hate trying to get onto the back of a motorcycle in a skirt or dress. Every time I try, I feel like I’m going to end up flashing the world. Still, while living here in Kpalime, in what seems like a world away from home, it is comforting to find things to add to my routine that are even remotely familiar, so I think I will try to make this church a part of my weekly schedule.
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