Harmattan and Football

"Some people believe football is a matter of life and death...

it is much, much more important than that."

~Bill Shankly

Oh how the harmattan winds have been blowing! I’ve been pretty busy lately with work; so sorry that this update is a little delayed. Teaching is going very well. I’m now teaching every day of the week, which I’m really excited about. My favorite part of my day is when I walk into the classroom and get welcomed with “Good morning Miss Emily!” by my 17 awesome students.

Since the last time I blogged I think the most exciting thing that’s been happening is Togo’s amazing run in the 2013 African Cup of Nations. Les Eperviers (the Sparrow Hawks) are in the quarterfinals and playing Burkina Faso this evening. I’m sure I will hear plenty of screaming and shouts tonight as the match goes on. I can already hear people in the streets blowing vuvuzelas. People here get CRAZY after a Togo win. The parties in the street will last for hours. During the match, after every Togo goal the spectators instantly rush out of their homes, into the street to celebrate the goal with neighbors who are as excited as they are. This soccer, or "football" match is the Togo equivalent of the Super Bowl, which will be on tonight in the United States. I have to admit I’ve never really been that into watching soccer, but when in Rome…do as the Romans do. So while I’m in Togo, I will strive to become a fan. Allez les Eperviers!

This past week the harmattan winds have really settled in. They are bringing down the humidity to the point where I actually am reaching for my blanket at night, which NEVER happens. I usually sweat through the nights and wake up sweating before I even start my morning run. Also, the dust brought by the wind is pretty annoying, but thank goodness I have sunglasses. I don’t know how everyone here survives without them. It’s pretty weird to look up and not be able to see the mountains behind my house. The dust in the air has completely blocked the view. The picture below was taken in September, during the rainy season, where you can clearly see the mountains. The picture above was taken today at the same spot in my neighborhood, no mountains in sight. 

Life Lesson

"A hundred years from now, it will not matter what kind of car I drove,

what kind of house I lived in, how much money I had in the bank...

but the world may be a better place because I made a difference

in the life of a child."   ~Forest Witcraft

This has been a pretty heartbreaking week at my school. Over the weekend one of our teachers was in an accident in Kpalime and died at the scene. My school is a primary and a middle school. The teacher who died was the director of the primary school. I may not have known this teacher very well on a personal level, but I always enjoyed his company. The last time I saw him was on Friday afternoon, while I was waiting for our English film program to start, (we watched Spiderman), and he was waiting for a meeting to start with the PTA committee. He was a very kind person and a wonderful teacher.

Yesterday I attended the funeral along with the teachers and students from our school. I was amazed at how many people were there. The funeral was held at his family home. There must have been about 200 people there, maybe a little more. The Togolese seem to have stronger connections to their acquaintances and neighbors than we do in America. They look after one another over here and communities are close, like a large family. At the funeral the casket was carried in by some students, and friends and family were given an opportunity to go into a small room where the casket was, to say goodbye. After a few words were said by close friends, the casket was put back into the taxi to head to the cemetery. I joined the crowd of students and many others, walking behind the taxi as it made its way to the cemetery, about two miles away. 

Witnessing the grief felt by everyone surrounding me was very hard. Women were sobbing, wailing, and crying out with sadness. People here are not afraid to show their emotions in public during times of sorrow. I tried to focus on remembering how happy he was the last time I saw him, his big smile, always making people laugh. It’s clear to me why so many attended his funeral. He made a positive difference in the lives of others. He was a kindred spirit, a great teacher, and a friend.

Aloha Cousins!

"Mele Kalikimaka"

I just returned from a short trip back to the United States to attend my sister’s wedding in Hawaii. I had an AMAZING time. When I first left for Togo, I told my family that I didn't think I would make it to the wedding, but along the way I changed my mind, with a little convincing from my parents. I am so thankful now that I did.

We had a wonderful week in Hawaii. My sister’s wedding was awesome. She got married at Paradise Cove on Oahu, and for the reception we all went to a luau. It was the best reception I’ve ever been to, probably because it didn’t feel like a wedding reception. It was more like a big party with awesome food and fun activities for everyone to enjoy. I’m usually not a huge fan of traditional weddings; they are so predictable, but this blew all other weddings away.

our little cabin by the beach

The rest of the week we spent exploring the island of Oahu. One thing I love about Oahu is the diversity of activities there are. If you want to enjoy the shopping and nightlife of a big city, you can visit Honolulu and Waikiki. There are also dozens of hikes on the island where you can explore rainforests or even the bamboo forests. If you like history, check out Pearl Harbor. And of course, there's the beautiful shoreline all around the island where you can swim, surf, or snorkel.

My favorite region of Oahu is the eastern side. It’s known as the windward side of the island and also gets the most rain, about 170 inches per year. The lush mountains, the beautiful sandy beaches, and the small town feel are what attract me to this area. My family spent Christmas day on this side of the island.

In the morning we made our way up to the Pali lookout in the mountains. It was dumping rain, but some of us decided to run out in the downpour and check it out anyway. We were absolutely SOAKED and probably looked like we were crazy, but we still had a great time. This is the site of a battle where Kamehameha and his men drove 400 warriers off the cliff to their death, 1000 feet below. Kamehameha then became King Kamehameha, the first king of the Hawaiian Islands.

Our first stop on the eastern coast was at the Byodo-In Japanese Temple at the Valley of the Temples. This temple was featured on an episode of LOST when Jin and Sun got married. All the scenes in LOST were filmed on Oahu, even the scenes set in Japan, California, or the Middle East. The temple was very peaceful and calm. It was built in the 1960s to commemorate the centennial anniversary of the arrival of the first Japanese immigrants to Hawaii. It is a half-size replica of the Byodo-In temple in Uji, Japan.

Making our way down the coast, we passed through President Obama’s hometown of Kailua. We even saw secret service on boats and his road blocked off. So cool!!

Our last stop on Christmas Day was to Lanikai beach, one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I’ve never seen anything like it. The fine, light sand and clear water made me feel like I was in Bora Bora. The beach is only .5 miles long and with no parking lot or amenities, it’s not crowded like some public beaches on the island. 

So after about 36 hours of traveling, I'm back in Togo. It was hard to say goodbye again to everyone, but I'm very happy that I went. It was the best Christmas EVER. 

Batik

“When women thrive, all of society benefits,

and succeeding generations are given a better start in life.”

~Kofi Annan

I recently had a handbag made for me and I love it so much I wanted to post it. I live about two minutes away from a woman named Chantal, who makes beautiful batik fabric and also sews clothes. My site mate, another Peace Corps Volunteer in the Small Enterprise Development program, works with Chantal on improving her business. I’m over at her house often. Her family is very welcoming and I love hanging out with them. Watching the batik process is one of my favorite things to do there. Everything is hand made; the patterns are not printed on, but each is hand stamped with hot wax to create the colorful patterns. 

First they stamp or paint plain white cotton with hot wax. Then, they put the cloth into a bath of dye. The fabric that is not stamped will turn to the color of the die, while the stamped fabric will stay lighter or white. To make the fabrics that have two colors. First you die the fabric one color. After it is dry you then stamp the fabric with a pattern. The parts stamped will stay that color. So, during the next bath of dye, only the parts of fabric that aren't stamped with wax will change color. It is much more complicated than just printing patterns onto fabric, but I think this process is part of what makes the fabric special. No yard of batik will be exactly the same as another.  

The Peace Corps works with women, encouraging them to stay in school and learn about running their own businesses, empowering them to succeed, because studies show that when women are successful, it benefits the rest of the community. Chantal's business, Aklala Batik du Togo, is an example of that success.

Here is a link to a blog about her work:   http://aklala.blogspot.com/   
Also check out Facebook - Aklala Batik du Togo

Winds of Change

"The only way to make sense out of change is to

plunge into it, move with it, and join the dance."

~Alan Watts

Five months ago today I arrived in Togo. Wow, time has just flown by. I know I haven’t blogged in a while....very busy days in Kpalime. This is the last week of classes for the first trimester at school, so all my students are preparing for their exams next week, called the “compo.” These exams are not written by the teachers, but by the local education administrators of the Togolese government. I really hope my students do well.

I got some very sad news over the weekend. My dog, Lily, back home in Washington, passed away on Sunday. Lily was almost 17 years old. I know it was her time to go.....most dogs don’t even live that long, but it was still hard to hear the news. I was only six years old when we got Lily. She has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. When I was young, I talked to my dogs like they were people, like my best friends. Before I left in July, I made sure to say my final goodbyes, realizing that she wouldn’t make it to age 19, but it still didn’t make this Sunday's news any easier.

On a lighter note, the Harmattan season has officially begun. My school’s secretary, Nafi, explained to me that Harmattan lasts from mid-December to about the beginning of February. During this time winds blow from the Sahara desert south over West Africa to the ocean. This brings dry, dusty conditions to the northern parts of Western Sub Saharan Africa. In Kpalime the dust in the air is hardy noticeable. When you look up in the sky, it seems just a little bit fuzzier than normal, but it is still clear enough to see the stars at night. The only real difference I’ve noticed is an increase in the wind. It’s not intense or anything like the wind storms we get back home in the winter, though. The average high temperature in Kpalime is usually in the mid 90s every day with about 80% humidity. The breeze doesn’t change this too much during the day, but at night it is a little cooler. It’s been amusing to see my students wearing sweaters and sweatshirts, and listen to them complain about being COLD in the morning. 

So I have been thinking a lot about change these days, with the arrival of the Harmattan, my students facing school exams, and losing my dear Lily.

Life's about changing, good or bad, nothing ever stays the same...but life goes on.

Thanksgiving in Africa

"As we express our gratitude, we must never forget that the highest appreciation

is not to utter words, but to live by them."  ~John F. Kennedy

Like so many other Americans, Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. I love the fall weather, running the Turkey Trot in Gig Harbor with my family, watching the parade and dog show on TV while cooking and prepping the meal, and making delicious pies. I miss these traditions! This year, of course, was different for me, far away from friends and family. Thanksgiving was just like any other day here in Togo. I gave my students their English exam and had a meeting with my Girls Club.

At home my family is pretty relaxed about the holidays, and I LOVE that. We don’t follow  rigid expectations. Last year we had our Thanksgiving meal on Friday, not Thursday, and instead made sushi together on Thanksgiving. This year my mom told me they were having Thanksgiving dinner on Sunday so that everyone could be there. I love that they do this. It’s not the day that is the most important, it's being together with family, right?

A similar thing happened for me in Togo. On Saturday, while I was in Sotouboua visiting another volunteer, we had a small Thanksgiving dinner. Three other volunteers and I cooked our dinner and ate by candlelight on a balcony. Our meal was beautiful and delicious. We made chicken, stuffing, garlic mashed potatoes, sautéed carrots, gravy, and cranberry sauce with fresh cranberries. It was amazing. I even made a pumpkin pie! I forgot how much I love pie. How is that possible? Well, I’ve been trying hard to forget foods that I love back home and can’t find here, pie is just one example.

Thanksgiving is different when you are away from home and family, but my celebration in Togo with my friends was no less special.  Living in Africa reminds me that there are so many things to be thankful for in life. I am thankful for being here in Togo, working with amazing people. I am thankful for my new American friends. I am thankful for my Togolese friends, the teachers at my school, my neighbors, and the people of Kpalime for welcoming me. I am thankful for my friends and family back home, and all the love and support they send me in the form of texts, letters, packages, phone calls, thoughts, and prayers. Thank you! I am thankful to my parents for raising me, being supportive of the decisions I’ve made, and putting me through school. A BIG thank you to you, Mom and Dad! I am thankful for every day that I have, every sunrise and every sunset. Life is so short and being here in Togo makes me incredibly thankful for my life and the opportunities that lie ahead.  

The Long and Winding Road

"A journey is like a marriage. The certain way to be wrong
is to think you control it."
- John Steinbeck

Last week I took my first adventure up north, traveling to the Centrale region to visit another volunteer living in Sotouboua. Transportation in Togo can be crazy long, and heading north from Kpalime is a hassle. The road to Atakpame is horrible, full of potholes, and it can take up to four hours to get there.

To begin my journey, I headed out in the morning to the station near the Grand Marché. After I found a van and secured my seat, I went to the station cashier, where I paid for and received my ticket. I like that Kpalime has a cashier who handles this, because I know I’m not getting charged more by the driver, ripping me off because I’m a white person. We finally left Kpalime at 11:40am, after waiting in the station for almost three hours. The car was loaded up with 16 people squished inside and lots of cargo on top.

There are two options to get from Kpalime to Atakpame. You can go on the Lome-Atakpame route or you can go up to Adeta and cut across to the Route Nationale, a road that goes from the capital, Lome, all the way to Burkina Faso. My driver took the shortcut to the Route Nationale. This is a dirt road full of rocks. The car constantly vibrates and makes you feel like you are sitting in a massage chair, but not nearly as comfortable.

Along the way we got a flat tire, so we had to get out to change it. The driver and passengers told me, “C’est l’Afrique d’Ouest.” While I was waiting, a group of Togolese children in the fields chanted “yovo, yovo, yovo,” for a solid thirty minutes. Fun times. During our break, I finally noticed how dirty I had become from the dust and filth flying around and coming in the windows. I used Kleenex to wipe my face and arms and it was solid brown. Gross. I also noticed that my right arm had gotten sunburned while sitting in the passenger seat. Lesson learned for next time.

I didn't reach Sotouboua until 6:30pm. The last part of the trip was in the dark, which was a bit terrifying. Taxi drivers here are pretty crazy about passing and swerving to avoid potholes. There were a handful of times when I thought we were for sure going to hit the car coming towards us! I was very thankful that I arrived all in one piece, ALIVE, and it was SO nice to be reunited with friends....making all the hassles totally worth it.